3 Days hiking in Banff

Just get off the coach and onto the road less traveled

Banff is truly one of the most awe-inspiring mountain destinations. Gorgeous wilderness, endless outdoor adventures, and upscale amenities to suit even the pickiest traveler. The biggest challenge will be narrowing down your options to best suit your travel plans. Here are a few ideas:

Banff Itinerary/overview:

Flights: Fly into Calgary airport-it is about a 90 minute drive to Banff from the airport. I would recommend renting a car vs. public transportation since you may want to drive into downtown Banff, Canmore, or Trailheads that are inaccessible by public transit. Honestly, hitch hiking was fairly common in the area- but that is not in my wheelhouse.

Accommodations: Since we prefer to find more adventurous places to stay, we opted for a log cabin experience via Storm Mountain Lodge Cabins. It was wonderful! This amazing place is tucked away in the mountains between Lake Louise and downtown Banff. The restaurant on site was rustic and delicious! It is off the beaten path with nothing else around it. (There is a sign along the highway to the cabin that there is no cellular service for the next 120 kilometers! Oh no! They weren’t kidding- cell service was intermittent at best.) If you are a Fancy Pants then you absolutely must stay at Fairmont Chateau on Lake Louise. There are certainly plenty of Air BNB’s and hotels in Banff- but make a reservation early, as accommodations fill up quickly!

If all else fails, camp!

Day 1: Check the box and head to Lake Louise

The craziness at lake Louis is worth the view

My Pepper and I decided to get the touristy Lake Louise out of the way right off the bat. Let me tell you- it was a madhouse. I would recommend getting there early- and I mean EARLY, to beat the rush of tourists. The main parking lot is SMALL- so we were hell bent on getting a parking spot instead of being diverted to the satellite lot and having to take the Parks Canada or Roam Transit shuttle. So, we got up at the crack-ass of dawn and arrived at the main lot to Lake Louise and the Fairmont Chateau. The lot was about half-full when we arrived at 6:15am, so we were in good shape. Since it was so early, and the Fairmont IS a lovely hotel- we opted for a latte and croissant at the cafe in the front of the hotel for a pit stop before heading out to hike. Few tourists were up yet- just the salty ones like us. So it was a peaceful breakfast before we ventured out to the trails.

Since my Pepper and I are experienced hikers - I didn’t worry too much about our first day on the trails. And I was wrong. So, this was no Half Dome level hiking experience- but be PREPARED when you head out to sight see. We ended up hiking 12 miles that day! It was exhausting! And I did not put my hair up…sweaty, salty long hair is no fun.

Start the hike behind the hotel and Upper Lake Louise Parking Area. There are a variety of options from this trailhead depending on your energy level, ability, timeframe and preparation.The Lake Agnes Trailhead is one of the most popular as it leads up to a charming teahouse. It is loaded with tourists by mid-morning, so head up there early! We arrived in time to grab a table and have a cup of tea. By the time we left there were was a line of people waiting to get a seat.

A second tea house is located off the Lake Agnes trail via the Plain of Six Glaciers Trailhead by following the Highline Trail. (Its about a 14.6km loop). Prior to reaching the teahouse you will see a wooden gate. Keep walking past it to Mirror Lake. The Teahouse and Lake agnes are right in front of you. You will have to climb a few sets of wooden stairs- so the thought of some tea and banana bread are a welcome sight! Chow down, hikers!

The Saddleback Trails and Fairview Mountain trailheads are a bit more challenging- so be prepared with water and snacks so you can enjoy the spectacular view!

Day 2: Moraine Lake

I cannot say this often enough- get there early! We decided to arrive for sunrise so we could again get a parking spot in the main lot at Moraine Lake. We arrived at 5:15am and got one of the last spaces! Cars were hovering around the perimeter, but by 6am parking attendants arrive and block traffic from driving up the road that leads to the lot.

Tip: A sneaky way to get the traffic attendants to allow you onto the road to reach the lot, turn on your headlights and tell the attendants you are hiking the Paradise Valley trail. Its a trailhead near Moraine Lake, and a secret amongst locals to access Moraine Lake. This will work if you are leaving Lake Louise and want to stop at Moraine Lake to go canoeing or whatever. Otherwise you will be diverted to a remote lot and have to take a shuttle to Moraine Lake. So annoying! Forget it! Just play nice and say you are hiking the Paradise Valley Trail.

You can certainly hike around Moraine Lake or go canoeing on the gorgeous blue glacial waters. But we opted for a more challenging hike than the previous day! My Pepper and I had had enough of 5000 of our Instagram besties crowding the beautiful trails! We wanted the solace and peace of Mother Nature! So, we grabbed a can of bear spray ( recommended on certain trails) and made our way to the Larch Valley Trailhead. This trail has a warning sign to hike in groups of 4 as a matter of safety. So, being the rule-breakers that we are, we figured, meh! We will meet hikers along the way and join them….which is exactly what happened. Just as we were approaching the Trailhead a Japanese gentleman was loitering around and asked if he could walk with us on our hike. Of course you can! Safety in numbers, my new friend! And how interesting is it to wander through Banff learning about another countries culture!

The three of us and our bear spray proceeded to hike along the Larch Valley Trail to Sentinel Pass (about 5 1/2 hours) up steep switchbacks through the forest. If you decide to head all the way up Wenkchemna Pass (about 8 hours total round trip) you will be rewarded with spectacular view of The Valley of the Ten Peaks along the Continental Divide. You will also be one of the few hikers on the trail-away from the hustle and bustle of the tourist trap at the lake. Enjoy the solitude!

Tip: It is much cheaper to buy bear spray in Canmore. $40 in Canmore, $50 in Banff. The rub is that you cannot take it home with you on the plane! We shared the love and passed our can along to another traveler.

Day 3: Bourgeon Lake via Harvey Pass Hike

Head to the Bourgeon parking lot to start your day. The lot is SMALL, really small. There is only room for about 20 cars. So…set the alarm and just get there early! The entrance to the trials at the gated staircase. (To prevent bears from wandering on the Trans-Canada Highway)
The trail is about 20 kilometers out and back with an elevation gain of 1075meters in total (if you head all the way up to the Matterhorn of the Rockies). It will take 6-8 hours and is a pretty strenuous hike.

Don’t forget your bear spray! This is another trail where it is recommended you hike in groups of 4, for your own safety. We met a great couple from Spain that we ended up hiking with all day. It was a great experience! Not only did we hike a long, beautiful, back-country mountain route, but we learned about life in another country from people just like us!

The back country trail is quite an adventure- highway. You will traverse through the forested land and cross numerous creek crossings of Wolverine Creek. While some may decide to stop at Bourgeau Lake for lunch and turn around and head back- I highly recommend continuing to Harvey Pass to the right of the lake. You will hike in almost complete solitude on a rough, mile long skree path toward Mount Bourgeau. Keep your eyes open for Marmots! They are hiding out all along the way.

After about 2km you will reach Harvey Lake. Keep going to the left of the lake for views of Mount Assiniboine (the Matterhorn of the Rockies!) If you get a wild hair head up even HIGHER to the top of Mount Bourgeon- 400m up! For you Instagram junkies, you may be able to catch a signal to post a pic around Harvey Pass.

Do you have time for a 4th day?

There are tons of other great hikes you can do- can you say Iceline Trail? -but we had to head back to the airport. On our way, we stopped in Canmore for lunch. Ugh, I wish we had another day or two! Canmore is small and charming, but without all the crowds of Banff. Cycling is HUGE here, with free ride, cross-country, and downhill mountain bike trails. Rent a road bike and head to the Legacy Trail in Canmore, which runs along the Trans Canada Highway. It is a 26 mile round-trip ride through the wild. Now get out there!

Tip: Purchase a multi-day park pass online and avoid the lines at the entrance, right after Canmore. One pass is needed per vehicle. They really don’t check it- but have it in your car or on your person just in case.